Begin with identity and purpose
Before unfolding a garment, establish its collection identity and why it is being examined. A new acquisition, a loan request and a suspected pest incident require different levels of detail. Record the object number, examination date, examiner, location and any limits on access. If an ensemble has detachable sleeves, a belt or a separate headdress, record those relationships rather than allowing the parts to become anonymous accessories.
A costume may have several legitimate histories. A theatre coat could have been remade for successive performers, fitted with quick-change fastenings and later altered for an exhibition. A cinema garment might belong to a group of near-identical production versions. Do not assume that every difference is damage or that an apparently earlier state is the only authentic one. State the evidence supporting an attribution and retain uncertainty where evidence is incomplete.
Prepare a supported examination
Clear a clean, sufficiently large surface and plan how the object will arrive, turn and leave. Remove jewellery that might catch. Choose clean hands or appropriate gloves according to the materials and the collection’s handling policy; no single glove rule suits every textile, metal ornament or contaminated surface. Never lift by shoulders, sleeves or straps simply because those are convenient points to grasp.
Examine only what can be reached safely. A brittle lining should not be pulled aside to satisfy a form field. Record “interior not fully accessible” and explain why. Stop if movement produces fresh fragments, a seam begins to separate, or an unfamiliar powder appears. Suspected mould, pesticide residues and other hazardous contamination require isolation procedures and specialist advice, not closer unprotected inspection.
Separate observation from interpretation
Describe location, extent and character before proposing a cause. “Three small holes with frayed edges in the lower right skirt” is more useful than “moth damage” when no insect evidence has been identified. “Brown discolouration beside the fastening” records what is visible without claiming whether it is corrosion, transferred dye or an old treatment. Use consistent orientation: the wearer’s left and right should be clearly distinguished from the viewer’s.
Record construction alongside condition. Seam types, selvedges, stitch holes, printed labels, laundry marks and changes in thread can explain making and alteration. Perspiration marks and abrasion may document performance; makeup residues might connect a garment to a particular use, but that interpretation needs supporting records. Oral testimony from a wardrobe worker can be valuable evidence when its source and date are recorded.
Build photographs that can be compared
Start with supported overall views, then photograph identified details. Include the object number and a scale where appropriate without placing anything directly on a vulnerable surface. Keep lighting, camera position and colour reference consistent when possible. Images are most useful when another person can understand their orientation and repeat the view at a later date.
Name files systematically and link them to the written record. Keep original image files as well as any working copies. A condition map can show tears, losses or repairs using a numbered key; it should not replace descriptions. Mark annotations on a diagram or a digital copy, never on the object. Avoid “before” photographs that imply treatment has already been agreed: examination may lead to no intervention at all.
Recognise change without erasing history
Comparing dated records helps distinguish a stable old tear from active deterioration. Ask whether a distortion has increased, whether fragments are newly detached, and whether handling or the current support could be contributing. A faded outer layer and a stronger colour beneath a seam can reveal light exposure, but a single photograph rarely establishes the rate of fading. Monitoring needs a repeatable method and a meaningful interval.
A condition record should also recognise significance. A rough repair made during touring may matter more than a visually tidy replacement. Cultural protocols can affect who may view, photograph or describe an object. Consult relevant custodians and communities rather than treating access as automatically unrestricted. Documentation is an ethical relationship as well as a technical task.
Close the record with a practical next step
Finish with handling requirements, support needs, unresolved questions and a review date. Distinguish urgent stabilisation concerns from longer-term research. Name the person responsible for each proposed action. If examination changes the storage arrangement, document that too, so a future custodian understands why a garment is lying flat or why a fastening remains open.
The Collections Trust’s Spectrum standard provides a framework for accountable collection procedures, including condition checking and technical assessment. The Canadian Conservation Institute’s guidance helps explain deterioration and preventive care. Neither replaces an object-specific assessment. The best register is modest about what it knows, precise about what it sees, and useful to the next person who must care for the costume.